Dog Grooming 101

(from i-love-dogs.com)

Finding the Best Location to Clean Your Dog

Finding a good place to groom your dog can make all the difference in establishing the habit. A suitable location for grooming should be convenient and enjoyable in order to be conducive to the regular practice of grooming your dog. Consider the following factors when determining the best place to do your dog grooming:

1. How much clean-up will your dog require? The mess your grooming sessions will make can determine the best location to groom. For instance, long-haired dogs whose coat stays in the comb are easy to groom indoors, but brushing your short-coated dog may release tiny hairs into the air, so you may have to find an outdoor location.
2. A harsh climate makes outdoor grooming difficult during much of the year while a temperate climate is more conducive to outdoor grooming.
3. A spare room or basement might be a great grooming studio as long as it is bright, comfortable, and spacious.
4. The ideal grooming location should have enough space to move around in, and is easy to clean.

Different Tools for Different Coats

Different types of coats need different grooming tools. Although all dogs have certain equipment and supplies in common, long coats require different grooming tools than smooth coats, curly coats, wire coats, etc.

Smooth-coated breeds include the Labrador Retriever, Pointer, Beagle, and Dalmatian. The following are the basic tools for grooming the smooth coat: Natural bristle brush, hound glove, rubber curry brush, chamois, flannel, silk, or velvet squares for polishing, and coat conditioner spray or baby oil.

For breeds with medium coats such as the Border Collie, Akita, and Golden Retriever, tools for grooming include the pin brush, coat rake, hound glove, shedding comb, rubber curry brush, and blow-dryer with low or cool setting.

Parted-coated breeds include the Shih Tzu, Lhasa Apso, and the Yorkshire Terrier. You will need the following tools to groom this type of breed: Pin brush, slicker brush for daily mat removal in dogs, fine, medium, or wide comb depending on coat thickness, scissors for shaping and trimming when needed, electric clippers with a #10 blade (except for Afghans) and a #15 blade for Yorkshire Terriers, blow-dryer with cool setting, and protein coat conditioner.

Examples of long-coated small breeds include the longhaired Chihuahua, Havanese, Pomeranian, and Japanese Chin. You will need these tools to groom your long-coated small dog: Pin brush, slicker brush for daily removal in pets, fine, medium, or wide comb depending on coat thickness, scissors for shaping and trimming when necessary, electric clippers with a #10 blade, blow dryer with cool setting, and protein coat conditioner.

Examples of long-coated large breeds are the Cocker Spaniel, Bearded Collie, and Newfoundland. You will need these tools to groom your long-coated large breed: Large pin brush, large slicker brush for daily mat removal in pets, medium or wide steel comb depending on coat thickness, coat rake, natural bristle brush, and scissors for shaping and trimming when needed.

Examples of wire-coated breeds are the Irish Terrier, Scottish Terrier, and Brussels Griffon. The following tools are needed to groom the wire coat: Natural bristle brush, slicker brush, hound glove or terrier mitt, combination medium or fine toothed comb, shedding comb, stripping knife, scissors for shaping and trimming, electric clippers with a variety of blade sizes as relevant for breed or for shaping and keeping the anal area clean, and blow-dryer with cool setting.

Curly-coated breeds include the Standard, Miniature, and Toy Poodle, Bichon Frise, and Komondor. Tools required to groom your wavy or curly-coated dog include the pin brush, natural bristle brush, slicker brush, combination medium or fine-toothed metal comb, shedding comb, scissors for shaping and trimming, coat dressing or coat oil spray, and electric clipper with a variety of blade sizes as relevant for breed, for shaping and keeping the anal area clean.

7 Types Of Shampoos For Your Dog

With so many different kinds of dog shampoos on the market today, it is not easy to decide which one to use. For most breeds, a basic, all-purpose shampoo is fine. But if you want your shampoo to do more than clean, you might consider a specialty shampoo.

Shampoos designed to deliver extra conditioning to long or curly coats can make post-bath grooming even easier.

• Accentuate your dog's coat color by choosing a shampoo made for white, black, or red coats.
• For sensitive eyes, consider a tearless shampoo.
• For wire-coated dogs, look for a shampoo designed to preserve the crisp texture of your dog's coat.
• Many dogs have sensitive skin or eyes. A hypoallergenic shampoo can minimize sensitivity reactions to bathing.
• If your dog already has a rash, allergies, itching, or other sensitive skin conditions, look for a medicated shampoo designed to treat your dog's problem. Your vet should be able to recommend a good medicated shampoo for your dog.
• For flea season, consider a shampoo containing a gentle anti-flea ingredient such as pyrethrin or limonene, or any of several natural botanicals designed to repel fleas, such as neem oil.

3 Ways to Dry a Dog's Coat

There are three methods that can be applied to properly dry the coat, depending on the breed of dog you are working with. These are: The fluff-dry method, the cage drying method, and the towel-dry method.

The first method and perhaps the most difficult to achieve is the fluff-dry method. A high-speed floor or hand-held dryer is used for this procedure. This method of drying is a very important and crucial step in the proper grooming of certain breeds such as the Poodle, Afghan, Old English Sheepdog, and Maltese.

In fluff drying, the hair is not only dried but should be straightened as well. The warm air from the dryer is directed at that portion of the coat which you are drying. The hair is brushed in an upward motion with quick, even strokes until the hair in that particular spot is dry and straight.

This procedure is carried out over the entire coat until it is completely dry. The results of a fluff dry can sometimes determine the overall appearance of the completed grooming job. Therefore, it is important to learn to give a proper fluff dry. Special attention should be given to the areas of the head, ears (long-haired ears), and legs.

The second method of drying is known as cage or kennel drying and is usually used on short-coated dogs or on dogs whose coat does not require a fluffed or straight appearance. When using this method of drying, a cage dryer is attached to the cage and the dog is put into the cage on a towel until he is dry.

It is important to make sure that the cage is properly ventilated on the top as well as on the sides. Otherwise, the dog may suffocate. If the dog is too large for the cage, he may be placed on a grooming table and dried with a floor dryer.

Another method of drying that is commonly used in drying small breeds is the towel drying method. Towel drying is usually used with small, short-haired breeds such as the Chihuahua, Miniature Pinscher, and Toy Manchester Terrier. The coat is rubbed briskly with the towel until it is dry.

This method is rarely used because many owners prefer the cage drying method, which is much faster. However, if the special equipment is not available in the home, this method is sufficient. However, do not to take the dog out until you are sure that the coat and skin are thoroughly dried.

8 Steps To Grooming Your Dog's Ears

Whether your dog's ears are long and droopy, or short and catlike, they require attention to make sure that they stay clean and free of problems. Ears produce wax, trap dirt, grow hair, retain moisture, and can easily develop infections when they are neglected.

Check your dog's ears every day. lf your dog is used to you handling his ears, he will be more comfortable with it when a professional groomer or vet has to examine them. In addition, spend more time making sure the ears are clean during grooming sessions.

Below are eight suggestions that you can apply to make sure that your dog’s ears are in good condition:

1. First, examine your dog's ears. Check the outside for tangles and parasites, which often gravitate toward the ears. Check the insides for dirt and excessive wax buildup. Your dog's ears should be clean. A little ear wax is normal, but large amounts of ear wax that looks reddish brown or streaky or smells funny should be consulted with the vet.
2. Next, check for hair inside the ear. Ear tiny hair can trap dirt, bacteria, and moisture inside the ear canal, causing infection. If you like, you may trim the hair inside the ears for a neater appearance.
3. To trim ear hair, pull the ear back over the dog's head, laying it flat against the skull. This will shut off the delicate parts of the ear canal.
4. For dog ears that contain long ear hair, pluck out each hairs with your fingers. If you find this difficult, dip your fingers in a little ear powder to make it easier to grasp the hairs. Don't pluck out more than two hairs at one time because this could be painful for your dog. You may use ear hair forceps, which are small tweezers made for plucking ear hair but again, only pluck one or two hairs at a time.
5. If the hair is short and hard to pluck, or if you prefer to cut rather than pluck, you can clip each hair with a small, blunt-tipped scissors.
6. Dust the ears with medicated ear powder if they are prone to infection. Most powders sold in pet stores will do just fine and will not cause any adverse reactions.
7. If the ears are very dirty, gently pull the ear out away from the skull to open up the ear canal and place a few drops of ear wash or mineral oil inside. Massage the base of the ear to work the cleanser down the canal. Hold the ear down for a minute to let the fluid enter the ear canal, then release your dog and let him shake his head a few times to loosen the ear wax. Check ears again and clear out loosened wax with a cotton ball or cotton swab dipped in ear wash or mineral oil.
8. For dogs with droopy ears, remember to keep all hair under the ear opening and on the inside flap of the ear trimmed short. This will increase air flow to the ear and reduce the chance of infections.

The Importance Of Grooming For Your Dog

(from dogadvice.net)

Scratching, licking and shaking are some of the ways dogs keep their coats clean and somewhat free of debris. Dogs take care of some of their grooming needs on their own, but still need a helping hand from their owners. A good brushing performed by you will keep her fur clean and free from painfully matted hair.

Taking the time to groom your dog on a regular basis has its own rewards; it strengthens your bond with your dog and allows you to notice health problems before they become serious. Look carefully for signs of skin irritations, lumps, painful spots or signs of fleas.

If you find your dog won't sit still for an ear-to-tail going over, do one task each day until he is used to it, give him a treat at the end of the session. Each time you work with him, increase the length of time you brush him.

Hair - Regular brushing and grooming will remove loose and matted hair to help keep your dog's skin free of disease and parasites. Long-haired dogs generally need to be groomed daily while short-haired breeds can get away with a weekly grooming. (See more in article below: “Different Tools for Different Coats”)

Fine-toothed dog combs are used for soft, thin or silky coats whereas medium-toothed combs are used for normal coats. If you dog has very heavy or thick coat, use a wide-toothed comb. Bristle brushes are good for dogs with long coats and grooming mitts are good for short-haired breeds.

When brushing your dog, run your hands through his fur down to the skin to look for plant debris and fleas. If you notice any dark specks on the skin, they are most probably fleas. The specks are flea droppings. A very obvious amount of droppings indicates a flea infestation that should be treated immediately.

When brushing the hair on and around the tail, look for rice-like debris. These are usually a sign that your dog has worms. If this happens, take your dog to your veterinarian to determine the type of worm it is and get the proper medication.

Remember to choose a time when your dog is calm and you have enough time to ensure a pleasant grooming session. Get your puppy accustomed to grooming early by handling your puppy often and touching its ears and paws, be gentle and keep reassuring your puppy.

Ears - You do not have to perform grooming tasks everyday. Ears should be checked weekly - inspect your dog's ears by looking inside them and if you spot coffee-ground-like specks, your dog may have ear mites. Ear mites are contagious and can cause severe inflammation in your dog's ears.

They are susceptible to many medications, including pyrethrins, rotenone, fibronil, thiabendazole and ivermectins. It is necessary to treat for at least 3 to 4 weeks in most instances to be sure to kill the adult mites and any eggs that may hatch later. You can quite easily obtain over-the-counter products for treating ear mites. However, there are numerous causes of ear infection in dogs, and it is best to have your veterinarian thoroughly examine your dog's ears to determine whether the infection is caused by ear mites or other irritations before deciding on the best course of medication.

Nails - Your dog is probably wearing his nails down on the concrete if you walk your dog frequently on pavements or sidewalks. Dogs with overgrown nails tend to develop physical problems as they shift their weight when they walk to avoid discomfort. It is therefore very important to check that the nails have not grown too long. It's good to give your dog a pedicure at least once a month. You should only remove the very end of your dog's nails and no more.

It may be very tempting to trim off all the excess but in dogs, the nerve endings and blood vessels inside the nail continue to grow as the nail grows which means long nails must be clipped little by little, over several weeks or months until the "quick" (the area of flesh under the nail) gradually recedes. If you accidentally clip too far and your dog's nail starts to bleed, apply pressure to the tip of the nail or dip the nail in a bit of styptic powder. Keep your dog inactive for a short time to recover.

Gums & Teeth - Dental problems are common in dogs. Does your dog suffer from nasty "doggie breath"? This can be a symptom of a much more serious and insidious health problem.

It is estimated that 80% of dogs over the age of 3 suffer from periodontal disease, which essentially is a serious deterioration of the gums and supporting bones of the teeth. If left unchecked, bacteria can enter the bloodstream, thus causing infection or damage to vital organs such as the kidneys, lungs, heart and liver.

To avoid costly veterinary treatments, keep your dog's teeth in top shape by brushing its teeth everyday. It is fine to use a child's toothbrush, or a finger toothbrush designed for use on a dog's teeth. Please make sure that you only use toothpaste labeled for use on pets as human toothpaste can be toxic to your dog.

In addition to brushing, give your dog rawhide chews to gnaw on to keep the teeth and gums healthy. Some pet oral hygiene solution which is an odorless and tasteless solution can be added to your dog's drinking water to promote healthy gums and eliminate bad breath, thereby fending off bacteria that cause periodontal disease.

Correct and regular oral health care can effectively extend the life of your dog by 2 to 5 years.